Strasbourg or «Filing in love with you»

Part III. Strasbourg or "Falling in love with you".

From Luxembourg we went to Strasbourg tiresomely long — hour four. Actually for certain would reach faster, but the universal physiological requirement has prevented — do not think that bad: have got hungry. Have decided to curtail with avtobana, to call in in any small town, to have dinner. Settlement with the is hilarious-unpronounceable name — during that moment we passed Germany — was without difficulties. But, neither cafe, nor restaurants, even shops to find out in him it was not possible. Then we were attached "in a tail" to the car of natives and "grazed" them to the house, and there have caught and have arranged interrogation. More precisely, interrogation Denis as has arranged the most interested in a successful outcome of operation, and I modestly hid in the car. In general, sometimes on me such terrible shyness before strangers attacks, that though stand, though fall. Therefore I also have preferred not to rise at all.

The spouse has returned to the car annoyed and surprised — in radius of twenty kilometres as to it have explained, there is nothing, except apartment houses! Here such at people a silent and peace life: you will not go on a spree. And here this village with not remembered name which we have travelled all over up and down in search of meal. 


As a result not at once, but all the same to us has carried — in the next settlement, already more similar to small small town — the red tavern was found out unpretentious in appearance. We were delighted to this fact inexpressibly. As the list of the become aggravated physiological requirements since the moment pokidanija villages with the sad-dissonant name has obviously increased by one point. We have joyfully parked the car and (it is necessary, and a parking at them free) and have confidently gone inside. It is necessary to tell, that already on an institution threshold our confidence as a hand has removed: from within the restaurant looked any royal dining room of Renaissance is not worse in any way, than. Sound heavy furniture — whether antiquarian, whether "under olden time", finished with a rich gobelin, ideally pure perfect cloths, intricate crystal chandeliers under candles, pictures on walls. Yes it is a lot of that else! Eyes simply ran up. While we, having lost vigilance, stared on the parties, us had time to undress persistently and tenderly to plant for a table. Even menus have already brought.

StrasbourgBut as we tried to understand, that there to what in this useless scrap of paper — all to last word has been written in German in which neither I, nor the husband boom-boom — left acceptable nothing. The only thing that was visible to the naked eye — a dinner for two will manage here euro in 150-200, it is not less. Therefore we bystrenko have made a dissatisfied look and have demanded in detail to translate us each point. Neither in this monastery of luxury anybody from managers and waiters for some reason did not know English, nor French. We needed to shrug only shoulders, sadly to explain, that there are not-know-that-such we cannot and retire. However, in extremely necessary to us during that moment on a way to an exit all of us have glanced a room. Have besides received also aesthetic pleasure. And who could think?! With a kind a shed and a shed — only red.

And from hunger we were rescued by a small greyish small house opposite — something like private cookery. Sandwiches, a batch, sweets — all improbably tasty also that is even more improbable, cheap in conditions of Europe, and Moscow if it is fair, too. And main — any to you the menu: you look at a show-window, carnivorously you stick with a finger and to you there and then turn, and try to pick up that concrete copy from equal on type to which you have absolutely casually got. Beauty, and only! In general, in the European bakeries there is this is awful-perfect feature: there all such tasty and beautiful what to eat it would be desirable both it, and that, and more is as much as possible. Eh my waist, devil take it, cried. And a grey ordinary-looking small house with a yellow signboard — here it.

After meal I have considerably quickened and have again started to spin on the parties, examining landscapes carried by by. And to look, under the truth to tell, was on what! Both eyes, and heart I already absolutely have accurately realised, that we have driven to France, is more exact in one of the most surprising and its perfect provinces — Alsace.

Strasbourg Strasbourg Strasbourg

By radio Elvis Presley there and then has sensually begun to wail, strengthening sensations and accurately passing my concealed thoughts: "Take my heart, Take my whole life too, For I cannot breathe, Falling in love with you" (music fans, excuse for discrepancies — as has heard).
And I have really grown fond of Alsace. For a long time, passionately and hopelessly. It is our fifth meeting, and all the same all as for the first time + And while on either side of the multi-coloured small houses exposed in a rare chain pressed to woody hills lasted, I thought only that here it — the best place on all earth! To live in such small lonely small house, pritulivshemsja to wood that neither a city nearby, nor neighbours and to write, write, write. You will not get tired yet absolutely. And then to leave upwards on hills to breathe spicy pine wood. To collect generous forces of vivifying air, to come back and again to write. It is possible to go occasionally to Strasbourg — to look at a cathedral, on wonderful fahverkovye at home — or in what other Alsace city. But it is not too frequent not to be satiated with bright shows, not to get spoilt. After all and so everything, that is necessary for happiness is: both wood, and mountains, and rest, and outside ancient, and inside modern, with all conceivable conveniences, the house. And the combination it exists in full harmony with itself. And quiet desired loneliness. Here and was sometime! If it is fair, eternally noisy, dirty, hurrying Moscow has bothered me already to death. It would be desirable rest and air which is sweet to breathe. Eh! Enamoured dreams. Well, where to us to Strasbourg +

And here, by the way, and it. It is street on which we have driven in a city and our remarkable hotel located in the centre. Very much I recommend, the word of honour. Sofitel is called. And near to it — medieval church from red sandstone.

Strasbourg Strasbourg Strasbourg 

Certainly, hardly having entered into number and poahav concerning its cleanliness, furniture and convenience we have changed clothes and have run on street — were afraid, that will soon darken, and we will not have time to look plainly of anything. By the way, with parkings we did not suffer this time absolutely — have given car keys to specially trained person in shape which delivered, at the same time, to us in a bag room, and have forgotten about this business.

And in city streets the real Prechristmas fairy tale and exhibition vanity has already begun. On each area more or less respecting, including main — cathedral, wooden shops in which traded any-different New Year's vsjachinoj have taken places. And edible, also is not present. But on this theme — the separate picture story right at the end. Running forward, I will tell, what even all this beauty is looked at terribly hungover sick head nezabvenno. And if as it is necessary, without any physical problems, one word — a fairy tale! 

Strasbourg Strasbourg
Strasbourg Strasbourg


Has darkened indeed quickly. But to us from it became worse not — on New Year's fires Strasbourg became even more brilliant and elegant. Such I it yet did not see.

And here with photos it has not so turned out — whether we have suffered prolonged anxiety from delight and removed shivering hands, whether light did not suffice, but generally all has turned out indistinct. And can, and with perepugu: somehow I have too relaxed and have forgotten, that in France any holiday does not do without numerous "live statues". Here also has jumped up nearly to a roof of well-known House Kammerzelja with medieval arches and seventy five carved windows where each fragment of a carving represents a religious or secular plot. At its bottom as-time this sat "the boy in powdered sugar" which so has at the wrong time begun to move. 

So, all beauty of a city to a smog to show only when will come "tomorrow" — there pictures have turned out accurate and bright. For now we will take a walk on a city together if do not mind +

Since the morning before we have jumped to have time to bypass historical city centre on the route laid by me — the guidebook I the day before has already bought and even fluently it has seen to recover the most beautiful places in the memory.

I felt myself already almost the guide and in all operated process. Such lack — hardly that is found, to tell the truth, for me , I start to dispose and supervise.

Strasbourg Strasbourg

Apparently on my resolute look and pleading the spouse — to mind to me in these cases is absolutely useless!
In total in a minute of walking from our hotel one of the main areas of Strasbourg — Area Klebera named in honour of the local historic figure settled down : general Klebera (was born in 1753). In the Middle Ages the area carried out religious functions — here there passed church holidays, then it became military cent: parades, marches, and now after in buildings at the area the whole complex of shops has taken places, restaurants, cafe, night clubs, the centre of leisure "Cinema-ball" the area bears cultural-entertaining value. The life here does not become silent for a minute, and, since a dinner — which in local cafes lasts, in a cut with the European traditions, see you in the evening — crowds of tourists here are flown down. 

Strasbourg Strasbourg Strasbourg 

Ah yes, nearly has not forgotten — here it here general Kleber. In sense, its monument which have established here in 1840.

StrasbourgFurther we have moved towards the main and greatest sight of Strasbourg — to a Cathedral called Cathedrale de Notre-Dame de Strasbourg. And on road have come across the high person who was chilly muffling up in a huge long plaid directly in the middle of street whom it is sad and already practically without hope, questioned at each passer "Do you speak Engkish?". At it slantwise looked and, negatively having shaken a head, there and then escaped.

It is necessary to notice, that strasburzhtsy, as well as any provincial inhabitants of capitals (in sense, not megacities) rather scrupulously concern the appearance. And precisely will not dare to walk about along the street in with what cover houses a sofa or an armchair.

But my spouse obviously would like dialogue, and it has entered in discrediting it before strasburzhtsami oral (not to confuse to the oral!!!) communication with the person in a plaid. Minutes two they tormented each other English phrases, in one of the most difficult places Denis, probably, has sworn in Russian, as has relieved the tension. The muzhik has appeared "slav brother" as it was presented, and he searched for painfully local station on which owed something there maljarit. After to it have explained, that "it is necessary to be guided by indexes with a word" Gare "and here to you the first", it has considerably become cheerful and even has dashing thrown plaid edge on a shoulder in the manner of ancient Romans. On this optimistical note we with it also have left. In photoarchives "slav brother" it was not saved: somehow we were ashamed :).

And it is local confectioner's shops — about what I spoke: it is madly tasty, festively and beautifully! But this time we to them, thanks God, had exclusively aesthetic interest — breakfasts in "Sofitele" excellent.

Strasbourg Strasbourg

Therefore we, practically not being late, have gone further on the route considered by me.

In general that you now will see are it is insulting, it is dim, unfair, because in a life it looks incomparably more majestic, more monumentally, more fine, more improbably. For the sake of one only the Strasbourg cathedral it is necessary to go to France — believe! I saw it already in fifth time in the life, and it at all has not belittled that delight which you test when it suddenly rises before you — every time unexpectedly, suddenly in a gleam between three-four-storeyed Strasbourg houses. It cannot be captured the one and only shot: it is physically impossible. For guidebooks and cards a cathedral general view remove exclusively from height of the bird's flight. And it is inexpressibly perfect!

Strasbourg Strasbourg Strasbourg

Cathedral building has been begun in 1176 and proceeded four centuries — to 1439. Height of a spike of the Cathedral — 124 metres and up to XIX century it remained the highest temple of the Christian world, belltowers in Ulm and Cologne have not been constructed yet. On mine, quite already tempted sight, it till now the most outstanding and incomprehensible masterpiece of Gothic art covered from the basis to the top of a spike by stone laces with which help every possible bible plots and motives are recreated. I will not tell anything about pediments of its three portals, about the filigree socket from sixteen openwork petals, about towers, about an unimaginable interior. Words! It cannot be described. It needs to be seen and understood, how much human bones are buried under the improbable arches of the Cathedral and vytesannymi from sandstone stones. How much generations have voluntary buried themselves alive under weight of intolerable work to tell to the world about greatness of the god. They, immortal, have told to us about power and force of the person, about its perfect soul, about cleanliness of high thoughts and acts!  

And it is a museum of building of the Cathedral, located in two buildings-twins. The structure and in itself unique is a synthesis of the Middle Ages and Revival (step and voljutchatyj shchipets). But inside we, unfortunately, have not got — all opened only from twelve. The occasion well, will return!


So, all. As I personally under indelible impression of the Cathedral, will make comments further extremely a little. Simply, as well as in Luxembourg, I invite you to the pedestrian walk on capital of Europe — to the most ancient and finest city of Strasbourg!

Strasbourg Strasbourg

It is the river Or. Its two sleeves as though embrace historical city centre and form "island". All sights also have concentrated On him. On the river in a mode non-stop ply excursion water tramvajchiki, but I on such already many times went for a drive also we have preferred to walk around a city on foot. The Word of honour, have not lost!

Strasbourg Strasbourg

And now — the Roansky palace (constructed in 1730-1740) which served as episcopal apartments, and now is a museum. Louis XV was the first visitor of a palace.

Roansky palace Roansky palace Roansky palace

Kind of the Strasbourg houses from quay of the river Or.

Kind of the Strasbourg houses from quay of the river Or Kind of the Strasbourg houses from quay of the river Or
Kind of the Strasbourg houses from quay of the river Or Kind of the Strasbourg houses from quay of the river Or

And it already the city centre called "Petite France" — Small France. The name has occurred from a nominal name of hospital which has been located in this area in the end of XVI century. Here treated for a syphilis or "the French illness" which in those has extended of year because of soldiers of army Frantsiska I. So any poetics — continuous humdrum of life. 

"Petite France" — Small France "Petite France" — Small France "Petite France" — Small France
"Petite France" — Small France "Petite France" — Small France  

And further we have reached the rests fortifikatsionnyh the constructions of a city strengthened in front by a bastion of XVI century.

Strasbourg Strasbourg
Strasbourg Strasbourg

Seagulls here almost are not afraid of people and, apparently, specially take seat rjadkom on a handrail, that popozirovat for curious tourists. And we also were glad to try!

Strasbourg Strasbourg

All — we go back:). It is necessary to be in time in the Museum of Alsace, and in two hours already to leave to Baden-Baden.

Strasbourg Strasbourg
Strasbourg Strasbourg

And it is unique Strasbourg trams. Such anywhere is not present more, the word of honour!

The Strasbourg trams  The Strasbourg trams

And, here one more important pretzel — by it I precisely could not pass in any way — Johann Guttenberg. He has invented a way of publishing by means of a type-setting font. And in 1455, thanking its merits, there was the first Bible printed in the typographical way. Every week at bottom to monument Guttenbergu established in 1840, secondhand booksellers settle down.

Johann Guttenberg

So, and now the Museum of Alsace. All I will not show — somehow will see — only that has amazed my imagination. Actually it is the huge house ashore Or, constructed by a square. On it it is possible to reel up long-long circles, moving from a floor on a floor and to marvel to exhibits. Everything, that in him is — is collected by local residents, brought from own houses. That is why looks especially touchingly and warmly. By the way, in cash desk us, first of all, have asked, from what country we have arrived. Having heard in the answer fair "from Russia", have smiled warmly and tickets have given out free of charge. Who will understand them these Frenchmen :)?. It is a breadboard model of a building of a museum. And further — will guess: furniture any-different and utensils.

Museum of Alsace Museum of Alsace Museum of Alsace
Museum of Alsace Museum of Alsace  

National Alsace suits.

National Alsace suits National Alsace suits 

And here these exhibits have simply unsettled me — children's toys. Rooms in size with a box from under footwear, furniture in size with match boxes, ware, other accessories — and all is made of a tree, a tin, a fabric by hands of the person! Also all was saved up to now! All the same Frenchmen, unlike Russian, the people economical and to the history think much. Even toys of improbable prescription and that have reached us in safety and an integrity. 

Children's toys Children's toys Children's toys

So, we go one after another: syrovarnja, vinodelnyj a press, a wine cellar, I do not know as is called — cords here twist (twisted that is), a house courtyard.

syrovarnja  vinodelnyj a press  Wine cellar
House courtyard  

All — we have run! At us already time has ended — from hotel it is time to leave and go to Baden-Baden.
And it — on what on road of eyes has fallen: hungry we already were.

All! We have gone. But with Strasbourg I am not excused: this time — we still will return to day of my birth — in general. There can not be I happy if suddenly I will understand, that never any more will not see this city. Well, be simple cannot the such!!! Because "Take my heart, Take my whole life too, For I cannot breathe, Falling in love with you +"


© Mashkova Irina Vladimirovna, 2007

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