Travel not Comme il Faut

Luxembourg – Strasbourg – Baden-Baden

Part I
From Moscow or «Aluminium cucumbers»

Not to be late for registration to rise it was necessary early – in four mornings. Generally only masochists choose flights with a start at 7:30. But so has developed: other variants to get on Monday morning to Luxembourg from the Domodedovo airport it was not observed. And me was impatient to use the "native" airport – and to go nearby, and parking office is available, and … other advantages. In a word, after spotykany about numerous thresholds, tapki, the bags dispersed on all apartment, it was possible to wash, put on and creep out, at last, under a rain.

Slush, dirt, thawed snow – beauty indescribable! Even the mood has improved at once, and the irritation from too early pobudki as a hand has removed: still any five-six hours and on weather in Moscow to me will frankly spit. I depart!!!

And on road to the airport on «Our radio» «Aluminium cucumbers» V.Tsoy sounded. And I nepodkontrolno have run into a nostalgic sleepiness, how much it it is possible for itself to allow at the wheel. Being the teenager, often and absolutely seriously I reflected on sense of this song: war, bullets, impunity, senselessness. And now to me bullets, and planes – aluminium cucumbers were for some reason dreamt not. Huge, heavy, green. And they needed to be put in the field. But to put cautiously. And a field not so canvas, and flight. Brad! It is time, probably to fasten with job at the airport while absolutely mind has not got under way.

And here, by the way, and it – the Domodedovo airport: morning, semi-empty (what rarity!) and not raboche-fussy, and idly-lennyj. By then I have already parked the car on parking and have got wet under a nasty rain through. But it is nonsense. The mood steadily improved, and, despite absolutely early hour, it would be desirable a holiday for the sake of an anticipation and freedom!

If it is fair, since a holiday I and the beginnings, only having got to the plane – have asked to cognac. The blessing to hesitate, except own spouse, osuzhdajushche sipping tomato juice, there was nobody – in a business class we flied one. And has then begun porosjachy delight – concerning clouds, dense as snowdrifts in the end of winter and air as cream on which, for certain, it is possible to ski, and still the blue-blue sky shining as if rock crystal of which can be made millions kulonov and brooches as at Swarovski. Here such strangenesses are got up with female imagination by cognac – we start to run into rough pleasure and to rave. Though, somewhere I already about it wrote. And however, admire.

Then I have calmed down and has buried in the book of the known journalist and the prose writer of pre-revolutionary Russia Vlasa Doroshevicha. In spite of the fact that "Mu-Sjan" is a parody to the love Chinese novel, the final impression has appeared simply terrible. In the book it was described, how the married lady of sixteen years has carelessly become interested in the cousin, the secular person who has got education in Paris. And behind a casual, imprudent kiss (the first and last, by the way) the couple was found by the spouse. That here has begun! To wash off a shame, the deceived husband has made to itself a hara-kiri, the father of the girl was hung up on collars oskorbitelja – the son of the brother, the last have sentenced to death, and to the adulteress cut off language, have pulled out on one all hair on a head and eyebrows, have covered a teeth with indelible black enamel and have sent in a lifelong service at the Singapore temple. Here so. Necessarily read – impresses. The author really is based on a profound knowledge of the Chinese way of life, customs and literatures, mixing in a narration a known share and black, any-other humour. But after it would be desirable to distract. Not that such thoughts in a head will get! Br-r-r.

Therefore I undertook the logbook. And with simplification the life — not the Chinese novel was convinced that . The person can and should live it with pleasure and sense, especially, when so much all interesting and novel around. Lines, me already thirty, and I still never was in Israel, Kazakhstan, on Cuba, in Uzbekistan, Canada, America, Spain … Indefinitely can list. I more so much all did not see — did not hear – I do not know. To hell nonsenses, hassle on trifles, quarrels, vytjagivanie veins from itself and the near! Anything is not present more valuable, than a life and its beauty created by hands of the person and voleju of the higher forces. Interestingly it is impressions from "Mu-Sjan" in me have started talking or all the same cognac?

The plane has started to come on planting. And I was going to absorb in myself world around. And it is rather timely — under us the perfect and severe Great Duchy Luxembourg was already stretched!

The tiny airport has accepted us without uniform hitch – sensation such, that at a shed of the passenger terminal we have landed one for the last to steam of hours. Have quickly passed the control, quickly left in the general hall of starts-arrivals and have quickly found out my colleague, the old kind friend and remarkable Moscow-Strasbourg bard Sergey Krasnobaeva. I, of course, was delighted, and he, apparently, was confused and surprised a little. I dare to hope, pleasantly.

And then we have gone in Avis behind the car reserved on the Internet. On all – about all: filling of documents, finding-out of questions of etc. cunningly minutes ten. And further – receive documents, keys and full independence: go on parking, take away the car and go for a drive. Good rest! Well, we also have gone. Here so my spouse was looked in the company of the rented car with which it was necessary to it srodnitsja the next five days. It has not found the competitor in my person – a mechanical transmission unequivocally do not wash the fad. And he, frankly speaking, has already weaned – only after ten-minute violence over the lever and an excess of pedals he has recollected, that to what and we have gone to the city of Luxembourg.

 

Part II.
Luxembourg or "Rain".

By the way, about birdies. In Luxembourg too there was a rain – small such, winter, drizzling. Only for some reason it did not call any negative emotions. Perhaps it is Shevchyuk's merit, whose disk I has elicited at Krasnobaeva as we on stupidity with ourselves have not brought any music. «A rain. With a sonorous veil has filled the sky a May rain …». And the first nodding acquaintance with Luxembourg from a car window under such accompaniment has passed more, than lyrically.

Hotel International in which it was necessary to stop, we have found without any complexities (praise GPS!) – as it settled down directly opposite to city station. Here so the Luxembourg station looks.

And here the parking has appeared not – to stand such simple business where it is necessary for soul or it is impossible, or is expensive. «A correct variant» have prompted in hotel – a special reserve of hotel on city parking place. Certainly, for payment, but for reduced prices. At last, we have tired out the car on an underground parking and have sighed with simplification: kruzhenija on pjatachku in one square kilometre round hotel rather have exhausted. And to sight-see such tiny city – minutes ten-fifteen on foot from any point to the centre — where it is more interesting without the car. Though local residents also call themselves since 1952 inhabitants of one of the largest European capitals. And on road from a parking to hotel, we have met here such company. Similar, on ljuksemburzhtsev the show is any impression has not made: anybody even has not turned back. But we personally were practically in a shock.

At once I wish to warn: if will be going to to Luxembourg, do not choose International. Despite the registered 4 stars, pulls hardly on three – old furniture, a stagnant smell of a cigarette smoke, towels full of holes. For the same money in Europe it is possible to find much more comfort (and happens with us in Strasbourg and Baden-Baden). The reproduction was unique elements which my attention in number otela has drawn, Walked also brilliant wall plafonds in which all room was reflected. But, really, it of that is not necessary.

Having lodged, we practically have gone at once to wander on a city. And, despite the fact that amplifying a calming down rain, have received the pleasure sea.

The city centre Luxembourg thanks to features of a relief is divided on two parts – the bottom Luxembourg and the top Luxembourg. In the bottom all ancient historical monuments settle down: strengthenings Petruse (1644), forts, ruins of the lock of counts and dukes Luxembourg (963-1556), a chapel St. Kvirina (11 centuries) etc., and in top are concentrated already more modern monuments. A city general view, it is necessary to tell, impresses.

By the way, in such modest small town on the size 95 bridges have gone in already: from the most ancient to quite modern. The cathedral of the city of Luxembourg — the cathedral of the Mother of god located in the top part of a city concerns one of the best samples of a "burning" gothic style. Its building has been begun in 1613. However some elements of a decor – for example, windows from vitrazhnogo glasses – have been created much later, 1935-1937.

On it we have suspended survey of sights, having decided, that will not prevent to buy the guidebook at first. And at the same time and to get warm in heat of local shops. Salons, shops, boutiques — all is interesting and it is beautiful to horror! For example, here this salonchik, trading in different belongings «under olden time» from which ljuksemburzhtsy, similar, come to violent delight and go on absolutely inadequate expenditure.

While we wandered there-here, and admired the shabby and made old subjects of use, has darkened. Well, here, certainly, does not remain anything else, except shops. I do not know, that on me has found – usually I visit every possible trading spaces with the big reluctance – but here have tightened in this absolutely useless pastime. And my spouse has led itself especially strange. I even would tell unimaginably – helped, than could, and did not suppose any negative comments of an event.

But we all the same have bought the guidebook. And still – some bottles of local wine on navodke our future Scottish friend (about it later). Till now I do not know, why Auxerroix it is necessary to buy in Luxembourg – can, local manufacture by something is unique – but we have obeyed, though then and in Strasubrge saw same. However to tell under the truth, the sense and true were in both purchases. And we have taken to Strasbourg only the guidebook.

In the morning of next day I was is already information is grounded – have read that to what knew what exactly I wish to see. And I always about one – as much as possible ancient and more want more ancient walls, locks, caves, stones, casemates. So, we impetuously accepted the bottom Luxembourg.

Medieval strengthenings, the stone transitions, the connecting two parties of the top Luxembourg from 12-13 centuries up to now, the rough river in the neighbourhood with ancient walls – all it creates atmosphere unreal, fantastic while … yet you do not rest a nose against any absolutely impudent slice of a civilisation as here this basketball platform, for example.

All – to stir about the impressions I stop. There will be only short explanatories to photos of the historical centre of Great Duchy Luxembourg wonderful, ancient and grasping spirit further. I invite to walk!  

General view of the city of Luxembourg from a viewing platform.

Medieval strengthenings of Luxembourg, doing a city of one of the most unapproachable fortresses of the world.

Ruins of the lock of counts and dukes Luxembourg.

St. John's church.

Chapel St. Kvirina. The most ancient cult construction in Luxembourg (11 centuries).

Bridge "Adolf" (1900-1903) is unique for time an engineering construction.

Strengthenings Petruse (1644) with adits of times of the Spanish domination disappearing in them. Fortifikatsionnye constructions in which the adits who have been cut down in rocks disappear. Their general extent – 24 kilometres.

Last sight at Luxembourg.

And more – a practical advice. Being going to to Luxembourg, in advance read about city history, its constructions, cult places. Ljuksemburzhtsy, apparently, are improbably lazy: on one building, except a cathedral or the church, on one ruins is not present the uniform tablet about that, what is it such when it has been constructed and from whom has got to a city – at various times here corrected both Burgundians, and Italians, and Frenchmen, good-bye, Great Duchy Luxembourg!

Continuation: Strasbourg or "Falling in love with you"